Šta sve treba znati o prosecco vinima?

11 Sep 2019

Pjenušavi stil vina proseko (prosecco) nastao je na sjeveroistoku Italije u malom vinorodnom regionu Koneljano Valdobijadene (Conegliano Valdobbiadene) u oblasti Veneto.

I dok su kupci ovu vrstu vina uglavnom razumjeli kao jeftin proizvod namijenjen najširem tržištu, proizvođači su uz puno eksperimentisanja tokom godina napredovali stvorivši danas prepoznatljiv brend za svaku priliku, od aperitivnog vina za slavlja do vrhunskog pratioca najfinije hrane.

Istovremeno, drastično je povećana i potražnja tržišta, neprestano se širila lepeza stilova i podizan nivo kvaliteta. Rezultat toga je da je proseko danas najpopularnije pjenušavo vino na svijetu, koje istovremeno nudi mnogo toga i najzahtjevnijim vinoljupcima.


Glera je prosecco

Zeleno grožđe veoma tanke pokožice i visokih kisjelina koje vjekovima uspijeva u oblastima Veneto i Friulija nekada se zvalo proseko, a od 2009. godine, po diktatu zakonodavaca i kako bi se zvanično zaštitilo ima vina prosecco, zove se – glera. Te iste godine je i region Koneljano Valdobijadene postao 44. DOCG apelacija Italije.

Glera je idealna sirovina za pjenušavac. Odaje divne mirise dinje, breskve, kruške i bijelog cvijeća, a dobijena vina su lakog do srednjeg tijela, dok se procenat alkohola kreće između 8,5 % i 12,5 % za suvo vino.

Prosecco nipošto nije šampanjac

Razlika jeste u sirovini od koje se ovi pjenušavci dobijaju, ali prije svega u tehnologiji. I dok se šampanjac proizvodi na taj način što vino drugi put fermentiše u boci, gdje se ono mijenja po pitanju teksture, kompleksnosti, gdje nastaju potpuno drugačije arome poput tosta i brioša, proseko vino sve obavi u tanku čuvajući jedinstvenu svježinu i osnovne note voća i cvijeća.

Poznato je nekoliko tehnologija dobijanja proseka, među kojima je možda najpoznatiji Charmat-Martinotti, a gotov proizvod se dobija daleko brže, lakše i što je najvažnije – jeftinije.

Prosecco apelacije

Osnovni garantovani kvalitet nude vina s oznakom DOC, a dolaze iz devet provincija Veneta i Friulija-Venecija Đulija. Proizvode se najviše u okolini Treviza i Trsta, dok najbolji proseko dolazi iz apelacija Asolo Prosecco DOCG i Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG, a među cjenjenije apelacije spadaju i Superiore Rive DOCG i Valdobbiadene Superiore di Cartizze DOCG.

Pjenušavci koji dolaze iz Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG su od grožđa iz vinograda na brdovitom terenu između gradova Koneljano i Valdobijadene u tršćanskoj provinciji, oblasti prepunoj istorijskih dokaza kako se ovdje vino proizvodi još iz vremena Rimskog carstva. Inače, Koneljano je dugo smatran kulturnom prijestonicom sjeveroistoka Italije, a tu je osnovana i prva vinska škola u Italiji.

Col fondo prosecco - drugačiji stil vina

Kolfondo (col fondo) je proseko koji fermentiše u boci, drugačijeg stila i privlačan je ljubiteljima prirodnih vina, odnosno onih sa minimalnim intervencijama u podrumu. U boci ostaje talog od kvasaca, a vino je sposobno da odležava dugo godina nakon berbe. Naziv coll fondo praktično znači „sa talogom“ (dnom), a vina u ovom stilu najčešće dolaze iz dvije apelacije.

U tom smislu Superiore Rive DOCG oznaka se odnosi na vina proizvedena u nekoj od 43 označene opštine ili vinogradarske lokacije, gdje su uglavnom najstrmiji vinogradi koji se ujedno smatraju najboljim pošto nude jedinstvene izraze različitih tipova zemljišta i mikroklime. Grožđe se bere ručno, a berba se uvijek otiskuje na etiketi.

Ipak, možda je još jednu stepenicu iznad Valdobbiadene Superiore di Cartizze DOCG, praktično grand cru proseko proizvodnje. Vina potiču iz podzone u Valdobijadenu pod nazivom Kartize, koja je 1969. godine donijela sopstveni set vinskih propisa. Vrhunske etikete sa ovom oznakom mogu koštati i sedamdesetak evra po boci.

Slast i pjenušavost prosecca

Kad je pjenušavost u pitanju proseko se javlja kao frizzante (blaže gazirano), ili spumante (jako iskričavo). Frizante (gdje spada i vino stila kolfondo) dostiže atmosferski pritisak u flaši od jednog do 2,5 bara i uglavnom je jeftiniji od spumante varijante koja prema pritisku parira šampanjcu sa do pet bara atmosferskog pritiska. I naravno daleko nižom cijenom od „francuskog rođaka“.

Što se slatkoće tiče, DOC proseko se javlja u četiri nivoa. Najsuvlji je brut, slijede extra dry, dry i demi-sec.

Superiore DOCG međutim ne poznaje kategoriju demi-sec.

Da li se prosecco proizvodi izvan Italije?

Iako je Italija mjesto rođenja pjenušavca ovog stila, grožđe zapravo odavno uspijeva u Sloveniji, ali i Kraljevskoj dolini u Australiji gdje proizvođači koji prave sve bolja i traženija pjenušava vina insisitiraju da se sorta grožđa i dalje zove prosecco, što se lagano pretvara u pravi rat vinara Novog svijeta i Evropske unije.

Najpoznatija prosecco vina na tržištu

Ca’ dei Zago 2015 Dosaggio Zero Metodo Classico (Prosecco di Valdobbiadene) elegantno je i krematozno vino puno aroma suvog cvijeća, zrelog voća i hlebnog tijesta, a u završnici bilja i začina.

Case Paolin NV Col Fondo (Asolo Prosecco Superiore) limunast i cvijetan na ukusu odaje zelenu jabuku, krušku, citrusne note i malo slanoće uz vrlo žive kisjeline.

Biodinamički Albino Armani NV Casa Belfi Col Fondo nudi diskretne naznake prženih badema, hlebnog tijesta i suvog divljeg cvijeća, dok je na nepcu pun hrskavih kisjelina i žutih jabuka.

Althéa NV Dry (Prosecco Superiore di Cartizze) kremast i prefinjen očarava cvijetom citrusa, meda i zove, da bi se potom razvio u arome vinogradarske breskve, badema i kandirane limunove kore.

Mionetto NV Luxury Dry (Prosecco Superiore di Cartizze) bogatom i krematoznom nepcu prethode jasne arome zrele kruške i zelene jabuke na nosu, dok će vas kasnije iznenaditi tonovi nektarine i kandirane limunove korice koje izbijaju iz izraženih hrskavih kisjelina.

Borgoluce - Iskričavi, aromatični i zavodljivi Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore, Borgoluce D.O.C.G. Extra Dry jedan je od vodećih proseka u Italiji, a dostupan je i na našem tržištu.

Ovo pjenušavo vino dolazi iz italijanske oblasti Veneto, dobijeno je od 100 posto sorte glera i predstavlja idealni aperitiv za sve vrste jela. Harmoničnost i elegancija ukusa upotpunjena je iznenađujućom mekoćom na nepcu i čitljivim ukusom pomorandže.


Izvor: www.vino.rs









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